MAKE A BONSAI TREE

The following instructions are written for the beginner. While there are many traditions and "rules" that guide the hand of a Bonsai Master, I've avoided the mystery that normally surrounds this interesting and fun hobby. These introductory comments only scratch the surface of the many fasinating aspects of this fun and rewarding hobby. They are meant to encourage you to get started on your journey. For those of you who want to learn more, check out my list of recommended Bonsai books and videos.

Bonsai incorporates art and horticulture to make a hobby that pleases our desire to express creativity and to nurture living things. There are a few basic skills and insights you'll need in order to be successful. They are not difficult to learn and will improve as you practice the art of Bonsai over the years.

HORTICULTURE. You must have an affinity for growing plants in containers. Bonsai need constant care and cannot be left on their own. If you enjoy those things associated with plants (watering, fertilizing, pruning ), then you will love your new hobby. Each kind of tree has its' own unique requirements. You'll learn as you go along. There are many great resources that can help along the way.

ART. You need not be an expert designer in order to enjoy your Bonsai hobby. But, it's helpful if you enjoy the challenge of design relating to balance, shapes, color, etc. Fortunately, many of the successful design aspects of Bonsai have already been identified by experts in the field. Check out the many books and videos that will guide you toward achieving beautiful Bonsai.

HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN BONSAI TREE

BONSAI SECRET

Study the shape at the right and commit it to memory. You will need it later when you style your Bonsai. (Yes, I know it’s just a triangle...trust me!)

PICK A PLANT FOR BONSAI

Your potential Bonsai might look something like the sample still in its original nursery pot. But it might be quite different depending on the kind of plant you choose. Look for a trunk that's thick at the base and shows some taper as it ascends. Plenty of branches give you more options for styling.

Consider your options when buying your tree. Look inside to evaluate the potential for structure. The trunk may be relatively vertical or may tilt. Perhaps a thick branch becomes the upper part of the Bonsai with judicial pruning and wiring. Open your mind to possibilities as you study your tree.

As you begin your Bonsai hobby don't let the choosing of a pot inhibit your progress. Choose a pot that pleases you. Plastic Bonsai pots are fine. I've used some nice plastic azalea pots as "beginner containers" for new bonsai. As your tree matures and you become more knowledgeable, look for a better pot to compliment your tree.

Use two strips of thin wire to prepare your pot for your tree. Run the two wires underneath the bottom and through the drainage holes. Make them long enough to eventually wrap around the root ball of your tree when it's finally in the pot. This will help keep the tree from tipping over (or falling out) before the roots can fill the pot. Put some fine screen over the holes to prevent soil from spilling out - plastic cross stitch “canvas” is perfect. (Slip the wire through the screen to hold all in place).

Bonsai soil should be free draining to prevent root rot. Yet, it should retain moisture. Use coarse sand, haydite, grit or other inorganic material for the base of your mix. Sift out any particles bigger than 1/4 inch and any finer than 1/16 inch. Add organic matter to hold moisture. I use a professional seed starting mix of peat moss and vermiculite. Purists will suggest sifted pine bark. A good basic mix is 70% inorganic and 30% organic. You will find many recipes for the "perfect" mix. As you start out, it might be best to purchase a commercial Bonsai soil. There are many suppliers on line from which to choose.

Time for fearlessness. These actions seem extreme but, with proper care, your tree will thrive. Remove the tree from the nursery pot. Use a chopstick (or a stick or other thin tool...a small garden cultivator with tines works great) to remove soil from the rootball. It's not necesary to remove all of the soil (although some experts insist on it) but comb out the roots as shown. Work with care to prevent tearing roots off.

Trim the excess roots from the root ball so that it will fit into your pot with about an inch or two of space all around. See illlustration.

Comb out roots and trim to fit pot

Trimmed roots

Place a mound of soil in the pot, enough that when you set your tree into the pot the base is slightly higher than the top of the pot. The surface of the rootball should be 1/4" to 1/2" above the edge of the pot.

Set the tree into the pot. The base of the trunk should sit to the left or right of the center of the pot and slightly toward the back, depending on the shape of your tree. Move it more to either side until it looks like the tree is in balance with the pot. Trim off more roots as necessary in order to position the tree. Bring the left and right ends of one of the wires together toward the front of the tree and twist tightly. Do the same with the other wire except to the back. The wire is intended to keep the tree in the pot until the roots fill out.

Fill in around the rootball with the remaining soil. Use a chopstick (or other thin pice of wood) to press the soil in between roots. The soil level should be slightly mounded above the top edge of the pot. Water thoroughly.

I mentioned that the TRIANGLE would be important to you. Now apply it to the style of your tree. Think back to how the tree looked originally. You can see from the illustration on the left that a triangle contains the potential shape of the tree. Within your tree you will see smaller triangle shapes. Look at the line drawings below to get some ideas about the potential of your tree. Begin your pruning to create the silhouette you have in mind.

Now you can fine tune the pruning by thinning out small unwanted branches so that major branches are more prominent. Traditionally, the lowest major branch begins on the left or right side about one third up the trunk. The second branch is on the opposite side and the third toward the back. Few trees are perfect enough to allow this to work out every time. I encourage you to prune the tree in a manner that looks good to you.

The trunk should be visible from the front to about two thirds it's height. On the upper third leave branches to cover the trunk if it works out.

Seek out the many excellent books and videos that will help you learn the secrets of Bonsai styling. The possibilities are endless and beautiful.

For now you may consider your tree "complete". In truth, because a Bonsai is a living thing, it is never done.You must care for your tree for as long as you have it. Below are general guidelines for Bonsai care. It's important for you to gather more information about the genus and species of your trees so that you can provide the proper care and environment. Visit my Bonsai Links page to find dozens of resources. Check your local Public Library for books and videos about Bonsai. Check out my Bonsai Bibliography for my recommendations (I've read everyone). You can purchase books and videos on line at Amazon.com.

Enjoy your Bonsai hobby. If you have any questions don't hesitate to send me an e-mail. I'll respond as soon as possible.

There are two basic types of Bonsai. Indoor (tropical) and Outdoor (temperate). While all bonsai prefer to be outdoors, tropical trees must be kept inside when the temperatures fall below 60 degrees. Some common tropical trees are Ficus, Serissa, Fukien Tea.

Outdoor trees are just that. These temperate trees must stay outdoors all year, except for an occasional visit indoors for display. Juniper, Pine, Maple, are examples of the more common outdoor Bonsai. If you've purchsed a Juniper Bonsai advertised as an "indoor tree", be prepared for it's death if you don't treat it as a temperate tree.

Indoor Bonsai should have bright light. Morning sun is okay, but avoid exposure to full midday sun. When you put your trees outdoors for the summer, keep them in bright shade. Indoors, your Bonsai will do best with a higher humidity than normal. Set your tree on a humidity tray. The water in the tray will humidify the air around your tree. Be sure the bottom of the pot is not resting directly in the water. This could lead to root rot.

Your outdoor trees should have, at least, half a day of full sun and a whole day is okay. Morning sun is best. Watch your trees carefully as they might need extra water during the hot summer months. In the winter put your dormant trees in a cold garage where the temperature stays around the freezing point. You can also "plant" the tree, pot and all, in a sheltered spot of your garden. Protect the trunks with plastic tree guards to prevent rodent damage.

Watering. The general rule for all Bonsai...check the soil moisture before watering. Poke your finger into the soil. If it feels moist, don't water. If the soil is dry to more than half the depth of the pot, it's time to water. Another technique is to poke a chopstick into the soil. If the end is moist when you take it out, no water is needed. Dry? Water your tree.

Fertilize spring through fall or when active growth is present. Use a general purpose liquid fertilizer at full strength once a month or at quarter strength every time you water.

Transplant your Bonsai every two to three years in the spring depending on growth. Root prune when you transplant.

Bonsai soil must be free draining, yet hold moisture. It's best to use a commercial Bonsai mix unless you have the resources to mix your own. Avoid using common potting soil. These soils can hold water too long which could cause the tree roots to rot.

Prune your Bonsai in the spring and early summer after new growth begins. Follow the tree's original shape or as the tree grows refine it into new styles that please you.

CARING FOR YOUR BONSAI

PREPARING THE WAY

ROOT PRUNING AND POTTING

STYLING YOUR TREE